Japan has been a country of tea lovers for countless years, but in recent decades the separation between traditional tea culture (ceremonies, tea houses, the works) and modern cafes (even traditional kissaten) has been clear. Green tea has never gone away, it just isn’t the drink of choice at a chic trendy cafe – or so the trends have dictated for many years. It looks like things are changing, however, on cafe menus all over Japan.
A major challenge to the cafe status quo began with the arrival of bubble tea/boba, an import from Taiwan. Some of the first shops selling drinks with tapioca pearls in Japan began inching in on the market in the early 2010s, like the legendary originator of the drink Chun Shui Tang, which opened its first Japanese store in 2013. The tea-based drinks used to make boba saw a huge boom in 2018~2019, when it seemed like every other shop was selling the trendy new bubble tea. But this hot new trend burned bright and fast – by 2023 sales for even big names like Chun Shui Tang had dropped by 35%. As for so many of Japan’s biggest food fads, the demand for bubble tea quickly died down, and like so many things in Japan, the direction of the caffeinated drink market was soon affected by the covid pandemic.
Coffee – a small treat, an excuse to leave the house, and often a necessary dose of caffeine – did well during the pandemic, and towards the end of Japan’s pandemic days cafes were quick to come back. But in the months since then, coffee bean prices have skyrocketed, causing cafe prices (especially for Japan’s famous artisan pour-over coffee) to rise on top of country-wide inflation. So what is a cafe to do? Well, start specializing in tea!
The most recent cafe trends in Japan see a gradual decrease in cheap coffee chains, and an increase in more specialized tea shops. These tea-focused cafes focus on high-end teas or specialty tea drinks, and often a selection of desserts to go with it. Menus list varieties of chai full of aromatic spices, bitter-sweet matcha lattes, or perhaps a broad selection of black tea blends. For a coffee addict, this news might not be the most exciting news, but it looks like Japan’s love of tea is back under the spotlight in a whole new way.
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