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Autumn is on its way, and in Japan that means it’s time for koyo (紅葉), the ancient tradition of fall foliage viewing! Every year crowds from around the country and overseas flock to Japan’s most beautiful fall foliage spots to see the seasons change, and watch the leaves shift from green to red. With amazing weather and colorful scenery, autumn is a great time to explore Japan, and in Nikko, Tochigi, the hills of Irohazaka offer a spectacular view of the fall scenery from the road.
Irohazaka
Irohazaka, sometimes called “Iroha Slope,” is a winding road that runs between some of the most popular sightseeing destinations in Tochigi Prefecture, connecting the city of Nikko with Lake Chuzenji, and its breathtaking “Kegon no Taki” waterfall (also called Kegon Falls). Climbing a series of steep hills using hairpin turns and some long, languid curves, the Irohazaka route is divided by the Kegon Valley to create one long one-way street. One side ascends the tree-covered hillsides to bring travelers south from Nikko towards the lake, and the other loops back down in a race towards the city.
This iconic road has also been selected as one of the 100 Best Roads in Japan, thanks to the visual spectacle and exciting experience provided by its 48 hairpin turns. Those 48 curves provided the route with its name, as well. The old-fashioned reading of Japan’s basic 48 character alphabet once began with “i, ro, ha,” while the word “zaka” simply means slope, so the name Irohazaka is a little like “ABC Hill”!
Irohazaka’s serpentine road is open to traffic throughout the year, busy with the many sightseers who come to Nikko to see the famously historic shrines and temples, soak in the local hot springs, or enjoy the picturesque lakeside. But if you want to rent a car during your time in Japan to admire some of Japan’s most gorgeous autumn views, you’ll want to head to Nikko during the second half of October, when the leaves are at their most colorful. During Irohazaka’s peak season, the crisp autumn sunlight illuminates the yellows of ginkgo trees and the reds of Japanese maples to create a brilliant autumn mosaic.
Fans of classic Japanese manga and anime might already be familiar with this unique road thanks to its use as a setting in the popular street racing manga and anime Initial D, showing up as the home course of Team Emperor as well as Kai Kogashiwa and his father. While we can’t recommend attempting a drag race on this busy road, Initial D fans might enjoy a leisurely drive along the road’s many zigs and zags!
What to Do Nearby in Nikko
Lake Chuzenji & Kegon Falls
Lake Chuzenji itself is a popular spot for rowboats and paddleboarding, or simply camping on the shore, but many sightseers in the Nikko area aim specifically for Kegon Falls, a towering waterfall flowing from the lake’s eastern edge. These dramatic falls were originally formed when a fresh flow of lava rerouted a local river from its original course, pushing the water over a 97-meter cliff often enshrouded in clouds of damp mist. Whether surrounded by green leaves, colorful autumn foliage, or even jagged ice, the waterfall is known for its beauty all year round, and visitors can now admire the spot from viewing decks above or take an elevator down to the base of the cliff to enjoy the view from there.
Akechidaira Observation Deck
If you really want to enjoy the local scenery, you won’t want to miss this stop on the way from Nikko to Lake Chuzenji. The observation deck at the top of Akechidaira is famous for its spectacular views of the whole area, with Kegon Falls pouring down the cliff beneath the lake, and mountains rising up in all directions.
The Akechidaira Observation Deck is accessible via the Akechidaira Ropeway, which departs from the ascending portion of Irohazaka, and arrives at the viewing point in just about three minutes. These cable cars are on the other side of the mountain from Lake Chuzenji, so they offer a totally different view of the surrounding foothills.
Around Nikko Station
Nikko is known for its charming mix of natural beauty and man-made history, and many of its most historic sights are clustered closer to the train station. Don’t miss the hugely famous Nikko Toshogu Shrine, or the elegant Shinkyo Bridge, which was constructed in 1636. There’s a lot to see in Nikko regardless of the season, but during autumn everything looks a little more beautiful!
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