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[Just what is Joban-mono fish?] Pt. 1 Getting to Know the Real Fukushima

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While the name Fukushima might ring a bell, you probably didn’t know that Fukushima is a treasure trove of travel and cuisine. Take a deeper look at the area with Japankuru!

Fukushima Prefecture: There’s More to It Than You Realize!

The country of Japan is made up of 47 different areas called "prefectures" ("都道府県" in Japanese), but for most people around the world, only a handful of these might come to mind: the prefectures of Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Hokkaido, perhaps Okinawa. On the other hand, somewhere in the back of many people's minds you might find a vivid memory of one other prefecture―Fukushima. But just where in Japan is Fukushima? What are Fukushima's defining features, and what make it special? Despite the name recognition, the details of Fukushima Prefecture remain a mystery to most.

So we wanted to take the time to look into Fukushima, a prefecture with much more to offer than your average traveler might expect, and above all else we found ourselves exploring Fukushima's "Joban-mono" fish. In this series, we'll be finding out more about Fukushima Prefecture and its coast, blessed with rich natural resources, and we'll be answering the question "Just what is Joban-mono fish?"

In part 1, we're going over a quick summary of Fukushima Prefecture!



Fukushima's beautiful ocean view.

Japan’s 3rd Largest Prefecture

Fukushima is found in the Tohoku region of northern Japan, and out of the country's 47 prefectures, it has the third largest area after Hokkaido and Iwate. If you want to talk scale, it's about 6.3 times the size of the Tokyo Metropolitan Area (a prefecture in and of itself), and you could fit a whopping 290,000 baseball fields inside Fukushima's borders! That last example might be a bit hard to imagine, but suffice it to say, the prefecture stretches wide from east to west, reaching from the mountainous regions at the center of Japan's main Honshu Island to the shores of the Pacific. Within Fukushima, the unique characteristics of each of those regions adds up to make one distinctive prefecture.

Fukushima is generally split into three parts, the Coastal Area or "Hama-dori" (浜通り), the Central Area or "Naka-dori" (中通り), and the western inland Aizu Area (会津). Looking at the different areas and how they change throughout the seasons, Fukushima is a multifaceted land of diverse sightseeing and cultural experiences.



Image Source: Fukushima



The world's most romantic railroad, Fukushima's Tadami Line.

Area 1 | Coastal Area/Hama-dori: From the Blessings of the Pacific

On the eastern end of the prefecture, facing the Pacific Ocean, the Hama-dori area is made up of the Iwaki area (いわき) in the south, and the Soso area (相双), centered around Soma (相馬), Minamisoma (南相馬), and Futaba District (双葉郡). The Coastal Area has plenty of regional flavor, from harbors filled with fishing boats to plentiful onsen (温泉, hot springs), and samurai culture still visible to this day. Fukushima's coast is actually the meeting point for two major ocean currents (called the Oyashio Current and Kuroshio Current in Japan), giving the waters many features that make the area an ideal fishing ground, which means it's one of Japan's most prominent fishing spots, famous for tasty fish.

Surrounding Iwaki City is the Iwaki area, which runs along the coast of the Pacific, and has uniquely cool summers and warm winters. It also boasts some of the longest hours of sunshine in Japan, making it a lovely place to enjoy the sun and the sea. Along the water are a few different attractions, like the Shioyazaki Lighthouse (塩屋崎灯台), Aquamarine Fukushima Aquarium, and Iwaki Lalamew fish market. The area is also home to Iwaki Yumoto Onsen (いわき湯本温泉) and Japan's very first resort, Spa Resort Hawaiians.

In the north, the area around Soma has a rich food culture, based in the bountiful harvests provided by the mountains and the sea. It's also famous for the Soma Nomaoi (相馬野馬追), a festival with a history of horseriding rituals going back a thousand years.



Shioyazaki Lighthouse (Iwaki City)



Iwaki Lalamew



Nomaoi (Soma City)

Area 2 | The Central Area/Naka-dori: The Center of the Prefecture

The center-most area of Fukushima Prefecture, Naka-dori is a Pacific inland area sandwiched between the Ou Mountains (奥羽山脈) to the west and the Abukumakochi highlands (阿武隈高地) to the east. The region is long and thin, with Fukushima City (seat of the prefectural office) in the north, economic and transport center Koriyama (郡山) right in the middle of the prefecture, and Shirakawa (白河) to the south. The three main cities each have their own train stations on the Tohoku Shinkansen line, and highways run through the region, making it a point of connection between the Kanto/Tokyo area and the northern Tohoku region.

Slipped in among the urban atmosphere are not only Kasumigajo Castle (霞ヶ城) and Shirakawa Komine Castle (白河小峰城), but also clear impressions left by the more recent Bakumatsu and Meiji periods of history (late-19th to early 20th century). In addition, the area has its own lavish natural features, with a scattering of famous cherry blossom (and other flower) viewing spots, and peaches as the most famous product of abundant local fruit cultivation. Naka-dori even has Nanko Park (南湖公園), said to be the oldest public park in all of Japan!

The onsen in the area each have their own distinct charms, as well. Bandaiatami Hot Spring (磐梯熱海温泉), for example, is famous for bijin no yu (美人の湯) waters, said to beautify the skin. Takayu Onsen (高由温泉) is actually known for being… a secret hot spring. And Iizaka Onsen (飯坂温泉) has been an onsen destination for over a thousand years.



Nanko Park



Shirakawa Komine Castle



Peach picking.

Area 3 | Aizu: Nature and Tradition in Harmony

The Aizu Area comprises the whole western region of Fukushima, but it can be split into two. The northern part of Aizu is centered around former castle town Aizu-Wakamatsu, and the city of Kitakata, while the southern part is home to Minamiaizu, Hinoemata, and Shimogo, which each have neighborhoods that still look like something from the Edo period (1603~1868). Thanks to the region's deep history, starting with the local Tsuruga Castle (鶴ヶ城, also called Tsurugajo), and plentiful shrines and temples, it's sometimes called "Butto Aizu" (仏都会津), which roughly translates to a metropolis of Buddhas.

Aizu is right on Lake Inawashiro (猪苗代湖) and at the foot of Mount Bandai (磐梯山), so it's known to be a beautiful place to watch the seasons change, with the landscape shifting dramatically thoughout the year. It's a place of unforgetable views, from the still water of the lakeshore to the colorful changing leaves every fall, and the blankets of snow that create fluffy white landscapes.

Minamiaizu in particular, with an average elevation of 500m (1640ft) above sea level and mountains on all sides, is a great place to relax in the midst of nature, enjoy traditional Fukushima culture, and even visit more "secret hot springs"―onsen tucked into the mountainside. It's also home to ski resorts that boast of great quality snow, but some people visit the area just to see the village of Ouchijuku (大内宿). Ouchijuku still maintains its layout and architecture from the Edo period, and looks like it hasn't been touched for the past 150 years or so, making a visit feel a little like time travel.



Ouchijuku



Local takato soba/negi soba (高遠そば/ねぎそば), soba eaten with leeks.



Mount Bandai



Ashinomaki Onsen

Just what is Joban-mono fish?

Fukushima―more than you might expect. From here on, we're going to go even deeper into Fukushima and its many charms, looking into Fukushima's Joban-mono fish, but also the area's history, tourism, local cuisine, and general travel tips. We intend to get to the bottom of what Fukushima is really like today, and we hope you'll join us on this journey! For more updates and news from Japan, follow Japankuru on twitter, instagram, and facebook!

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NAME:Fukushima (福島)

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      Hokkaido (北海道) is the northernmost of the four main islands that make up Japan. The area is famous for Sapporo Beer, plus brewing and distilling in general, along with fantastic snow festivals and breathtaking national parks. Foodies should look for Hokkaido's famous potatoes, cantaloupe, dairy products, soup curry, and miso ramen!

    • Niki, in south-west Hokkaido, is about 30 minutes from Otaru. The small town is rich with natural resources, fresh water, and clean air, making it a thriving center for fruit farms. Cherries, tomatoes, and grapes are all cultivated in the area, and thanks to a growing local wine industry, it's quickly becoming a food and wine hotspot. Together with the neighboring town of Yoichi, it's a noted area for wine tourism.

    • Niseko is about two hours from New Chitose Airport, in the western part of Hokkaido. It's one of Japan's most noted winter resort areas, and a frequent destination for international visitors. That's all because of the super high-quality powder snow, which wins the hearts of beginners and experts alike, bringing them back for repeat visits. That's not all, though, it's also a great place to enjoy Hokkaido's culinary scene and some beautiful onsen (hot springs).

    • Otaru is in western Hokkaido, about 30 minutes from Sapporo Station. The city thrived around its busy harbor in the 19th and 20th centuries thanks to active trade and fishing, and the buildings remaining from that period are still popular attractions, centered around Otaru Canal. With its history as a center of fishing, it's no surprise that the area's fresh sushi is a must-try. Otaru has over 100 sushi shops, quite a few of which are lined up on Sushiya Dori (Sushi Street).

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      Sapporo, in the south-western part of Hokkaido, is the prefecture's political and economic capital. The local New Chitose Airport see arrivals from major cities like Tokyo and Osaka, alongside international flights. Every February, the Sapporo Snow Festival is held in Odori Park―one of the biggest events in Hokkaido. It's also a hotspot for great food, known as a culinary treasure chest, and Sapporo is a destination for ramen, grilled mutton, soup curry, and of course Hokkaido's beloved seafood.

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    • Akita Prefecture is on the Sea of Japan, in the northern reaches of Japan's northern Tohoku region. Akita has more officially registered important intangible culture assets than anywhere else in Japan, and to this day visitors can experience traditional culture throughout the prefecture, from the Oga Peninsula's Namahage (registered with UNESCO as a part of Japan's intangible cultural heritage), to the Tohoku top 3 Kanto Festival. Mysterious little spots like the Oyu Stone Circle Site and Ryu no Atama (Dragon's Head) are also worth a visit!

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      Fukushima Prefecture sits at the southern tip of Japan's northern Tohoku region, and is divided into three parts with their own different charms: the Coastal Area (Hama-dori), the Central Area (Naka-dori), and the Aizu Area. There's Aizu-Wakamatsu with its Edo-era history and medieval castles, Oze National Park, Kitakata ramen, and Bandai Ski Resort (with its famous powder snow). Fukushima is a beautiful place to enjoy the vivid colors and sightseeing of Japan's beloved four seasons.

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      Yamagata Prefecture is up against the Sea of Japan, in the southern part of the Tohoku region, and it's especially popular in winter, when travelers soak in the onsen (hot springs) and ski down snowy slopes. International skiiers are especially fond of Zao Onsen Ski Resort and Gassan Ski Resort, and in recent years visitors have been drawn to the area to see the mystical sight of local frost-covered trees. Some destinations are popular regardless of the season, like Risshakuji Temple, AKA Yamadera, Ginzan Onsen's nostalgic old-fashioned streets, and Zao's Okama Lake, all great for taking pictures. Yamagata is also the place to try Yonezawa beef, one of the top 3 varieties of wagyu beef.

    • Japan's most densely populated area, the Kanto Region (関東地方) includes 7 prefectures: Gunma, Tochigi, Ibaraki, Saitama, Tokyo, Chiba, and Kanagawa, which means it also contains the Tokyo Metropolitan Area. In modern-day Japan, Kanto is the cultural, political, and economic heartland of the country, and each prefecture offers something a little different from its neighbors.

    • Gunma Prefecture is easily accessible from Tokyo, and in addition to the area's popular natural attractions like Oze Marshland and Fukiware Falls, Gunma also has a number of popular hot springs (Kusatsu, Ikaho, Minakami, Shima)―it's even called an Onsen Kingdom. The prefecture is popular with history buffs and train lovers, thanks to spots like world heritage site Tomioka Silk Mill, the historic Megane-bashi Bridge, and the Watarase Keikoku Sightseeing Railway.

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      Tochigi Prefecture's capital is Utsunomiya, known for famous gyoza, and just an hour from Tokyo. The prefecture is full of nature-related sightseeing opportunities year-round, from the blooming of spring flowers to color fall foliage. Tochigi also has plenty of extremely well-known sightseeing destinations, like World Heritage Site Nikko Toshogu Shrine, Lake Chuzenji, and Ashikaga Flower Park―famous for expansive wisteria trellises. In recent years the mountain resort town of Nasu has also become a popular excursion, thanks in part to the local imperial villa. Tochigi is a beautiful place to enjoy the world around you.

    • Tokyo (東京) is Japan's busy capital, and the most populous metropolitan area in the world. While the city as a whole is quite modern, crowded with skyscrapers and bustling crowds, Tokyo also holds onto its traditional side in places like the Imperial Palace and Asakusa neighborhood. It's one of the world's top cities when it comes to culture, the arts, fashion, games, high-tech industries, transportation, and more.

    • The Chubu Region (中部地方) is located right in the center of Japan's main island, and consists of 9 prefectures: Aichi, Fukui, Gifu, Ishikawa, Nagano, Niigata, Shizuoka, Toyama, and Yamanashi. It's primarily famous for its mountains, as the region contains both Mt. Fuji and the Japanese Alps. The ski resorts in Niigata and Nagano also draw visitors from around the world, making it a popular winter destination.

    • Nagano Prefecture's popularity starts with a wealth of historic treasures, like Matsumoto Castle, Zenkoji Temple, and Togakushi Shrine, but the highlight might just be the prefecture's natural vistas surrounded by the "Japanese Alps." Nagano's fruit is famous, and there are plenty of places to pick it fresh, and the area is full of hot springs, including Jigokudani Monkey Park―where monkeys take baths as well! Thanks to the construction of the Hokuriku shinkansen line, Nagano is easily reachable from the Tokyo area, adding it to plenty of travel itineraries. And after the 1998 Nagano Winter Olympics, ski resorts like Hakuba and Shiga Kogen are known around the world.

    • Aichi Prefecture sits in the center of the Japanese islands, and its capital city, Nagoya, is a center of politics, commerce, and culture. While Aichi is home to major industry, and is even the birthplace of Toyota cars, it's proximity to the sea and the mountains means it's also a place with beautiful natural scenery, like Saku Island, Koijigahama Beach, Mt. Horaiji. Often used a stage for major battles in Japanese history, Sengoku era commanders like Oda Nobunaga, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and Tokugawa Ieyasu left their own footprints on Aichi, and historic buildings like Nagoya Castle, Inuyama Castle, and those in Meiji Mura are still around to tell the tale.

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      Niigata is a prefecture on Japan's main island of Honshu, situated right on the coast of the Sea of Japan, and abundant with the gifts of nature. It's known for popular ski resorts such as Echigo-Yuzawa, Japanese national parks, and natural hot spring baths, plus local products like fresh seafood, rice, and sake. Visitors often spend time in the prefectural capital, Niigata City, or venture across the water to Sado Island.

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      Shizuoka Prefecture is sandwiched between eastern and western Japan, giving the prefecture easy access to both Tokyo and Osaka. Not only is it known for beautiful natural attractions, with everything from Mount Fuji to Suruga Bay, Lake Hamanako, and Sumata Pass―Shizuoka's Izu Peninsula is known as a go-to spot for hot springs lovers, with famous onsen like Atami, Ito, Shimoda, Shuzenji, and Dogashima. Shizuoka attracts all kinds of travelers thanks to historic connections with the Tokugawa clan, the Oigawa Railway, fresh eel cuisine, Hamamatsu gyoza, and famously high-quality green tea.

    • Kansai (関西) is a region that includes Mie, Nara, Wakayama, Kyoto, Osaka, Hyogo, and Shiga Prefectures. Kansai contained Japan's ancient capital for hundreds of years, and it's making a comeback as one of the most popular parts of Japan. Kyoto's temples and shrines, Osaka Castle, and the deer of Nara are all considered must-sees. Plus, the people of Kansai are especially friendly, making it a fun place to hang out.

    • Kyoto flourished as the capital of Japan between the years 794 and 1100, becoming a center for poilitics and culture, and to this day it's a great place for close encounters with Japanese history. The cobbled streets of Gion, the atmospheric road to Kiyomizudera Temple, Kinkakuji's golden walls and countless historic attractions, even Arashiyama's Togetsukyo Bridge―Kyoto is a place of many attractions. With new charms to experience throughout the seasons, travelers can't stop themselves from returning again and again.

    • Nara Prefecture's important history reaches back to 710, a time now called the Nara era, when it was once capital of Japan. Called "Heijo-kyo" during its time as a capital, it's said that nara was once the end of the silk road, leading it to flourish as a uniquely international region and produce important cultural properties of all kinds. To make the most of each season, travelers head to Nara Park, where the Nara deer who wander freely, or climb Mount Yoshino, a famous cherry blossom spot.

    • Osaka is known for friendly (and funny) people, but its history is nothing to laugh at, playing a major part in Toyotomi Hideyoshi's 16th century unification of Japan. Thanks to long years of economic activity, it's one of Japan's biggest cities, and Osaka's popular food culture earned it the nickname "The Kitchen of the Nation." To this day Osaka is the model of western Japan, and alongside historic structures like Osaka Castle, it also has major shopping malls like Umeda's Grand Front Osaka and Tennoji's Abeno Harukas. Osaka is a place to eat, eat, eat, with local specialties like takoyaki, okonomiyaki, and kushi-katsu, and for extra fun, it's home to Universal Studios Japan.

    • CHUGOKU

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      The Chugoku Region (中国地方) consists of five prefectures: Hiroshima, Okayama, Shimane, Tottori, and Yamaguchi. In Chugoku you’ll find the sand dunes of Tottori, and Hiroshima’s atomic bomb site, plus centers of ancient history like Grand Shrine of Izumo.

    • HIROSHIMA

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      Hiroshima Prefecture has everything, from world heritage sites to beautiful nature and delicious local cuisine, and it's either an hour and a half from Tokyo by plane, or four hours by train. Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima Island and the Atomic Bomb Dome, two Hiroshima UNESCO sites, are famous around the world, but in Japan it's also famous for food. Seafood from the Seto Inland Sea, especially oysters, Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki, and Setouchi lemons are all popular, and the natural scenery alone is worth seeing.

    • SHIKOKU

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      On the other side of the Seto Inland Sea opposite Japan’s main island, Shikoku (四国) is a region made up of four prefectures: Ehime, Kagawa, Kochi, and Tokushima. The area is famous for its udon (in Kagawa), and the beautiful Dogo Onsen hot springs (in Ehime).

    • Kagawa Prefecture is on the northern part of the island of Shikoku, facing Japan's main island and the Seto Inland Sea. It's known for being the smallest prefecture in Japan, by area, but at the same time Kagawa is called the "Udon Prefecture" thanks to its famous sanuki udon. Aside from Kotohiragu Shrine and Ritsurin Garden, the prefecture's small islands are popular, and Kagawa is full of unique destinations, like Angel Road. They say that if you lay eyes on Zenigata Sunae, a huge Kagawa sand painting, you'll never have money troubles ever again.

    • Located in the most southwestern part of Japan, Kyushu (九州) is an island of 7 prefectures: Fukuoka, Saga, Nagasaki, Kumamoto, Oita, Miyazaki, and Kagoshima. The island's unique culture has been influenced by Chinese and Dutch trade, along with missionaries coming in through Nagasaki's port. Modern-day travelers love the lush natural scenery and fresh food, plus the natural hot springs found all throughout the area (thanks to volcanic activity)!

    • FUKUOKA

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      Fukuoka Prefecture has the highest population on the southern island of Kyushu, with two major cities: Fukuoka and Kitakyushu. Thanks to growing transportation networks, Fukuoka is more accessible than ever, and so are the many local attractions. On top of historical spots like Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, travelers shouldn't miss Fukuoka's food scene, with motsu nabe (offal hotpot), mentaiko (spicy cod roe), and famous Hakata ramen―best eaten from a food stall in the Nakasu area of Hakata. Plus, it's full of all sorts of destinations for travelers, like trendy shopping centers, and the beautiful nature of Itoshima and Yanagawa.

    • KAGOSHIMA

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      Kagoshima Prefecture played a major role in Japan's modernization as a backdrop for famous historical figures like samurais Saigo Takamori and Okubo Toshimichi, who pushed Japan out of the Edo era and into the Meiji. Because of that, Sengan-en Garden is just one of many historical destinations, and when it comes to attractions Kagoshima has plenty: the active volcano of Sakurajima, popular hot springs Ibusuki Onsen and Kirishima Onsen, World Heritage Site Yakushima Island, even what Japan calls the "island closest to heaven," Amami Oshima. Kagoshima might be found on the very southernmost tip of the southern island of Kyushu, but there's plenty to see.

    • OKINAWA

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      The island chain of Okinawa (沖縄) makes up the southernmost tip of Japan, which is why it's also the most tropical area in the country. Thanks to a history of independence and totally distinct political and cultural events, Okinawa has a unique culture, and remnants of the Ryukyu Kingdom are still visible all over the islands. Food, language, traditional dress, it's all a little different! It's also said to be the birthplace of karate.

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